There are crags on the other side too, before grass leads up to, and from, Trum y Ddysgl (2329ft). From the rocky saddle, the imposing obelisk on the central hill, Mynydd Tal-y-mignedd (2148ft), is in view.
From the bwlch below, there’s another rocky ridge up to the highest point, Craig Cwm Silyn (2408ft). Here though the character of the range changes – and for me, the character of the day too. I’d had clear if overcast weather so far, all helping me enjoy this intricate route; now though, I was in cloud, on a much broader, flatter ridge, stones abounding on the summit of Garnedd Goch (2296ft) – some of them fashioned into ancient tumuli.
It used to be that Hewitt-baggers dropped down NW to Llyn Cwm Dulyn to finish their day, but now, thanks to a resurvey, one more hill remains, Mynydd Graig Goch (2000ft and six inches, roughly): it is, in all honesty, something of an anti-climax, but I was back out of the mist now, not a bad thing for otherwise it would have been compass work all the way.
From here, like most walkers, I dropped down to the village of Nebo, the end of a bus route from Caernarfon. The bus came, turned round, and went again without so much as opening its doors. Happily there was mobile signal, and I’d earlier punched in a couple of taxi numbers. It was a few quid more, but a much quicker way of getting back to Rhydd-Ddu.
A nice alternative finish, unavailable in 2012, would be to drop down to Cae Amos bothy and overnight there. A stroll up Cwm Pennant the next day and the Moel Hebog hills would be on your doorstep.
From here it’s a case of working up through crags until easier ground, and a path, leading to Moel Lefn (2093ft). Moel yr Ogof (2149ft) follows without much difficulty. From the bwlch below the latter, there’s a tough pull up to Moel Hebog (2565ft) itself.
The weather had been a bit spit-and-spotty but at least the cloud kept high, and stayed that way for the return – a nasty descent, quite steep with far too much slippery slate and bits of scree to be enjoyable.
Halfway down, below the worst of the ground, mid-afternoon, I met parents and two youngish children on their way up – they had been staying at the campsite below: we had a few words in which I told them of the rigours ahead, which I hoped would be enough to turn them round in the event of their first concern. I always want children to come back to the hills.