The 82-mile Essex Way was the first county Long Distance Path to be created, in 1972. I walked it for the first time in 1994-95 with my long-time walking partner Dave Travers – then, each of us lived close to one end of the path, Epping for me, Harwich for him. In preparing Walking in Essex, I walked it several times more in 2012-13, and again for the new edition in 2018.

  • The oldest wooden church in the world at Greensted
  • The ancient castle at Pleshey, mentioned in Shakespeare
  • Coggeshall, one of the architectural highlights of Essex
  • Rewilding at the Fordham Estate, beside the River Colne
  • The glorious countryside of Dedham Vale
  • A sea-side approach to the Georgian town of Harwich
approaching Toot Hill

On the way to Toot Hill

Meadows by the Ter

Meadows by the River Ter

Lawford church


Walking a long-distance path is not simply a matter of putting one foot in front of another. Many are daunted by the organisation needed – where to stay, what to take, how to get around. This page gives an insight as to how to tackle the practicalities, using the Essex Way as described in my Cicerone guide Walking in Essex as an example.

All at once or in bits?

If you can afford the time to walk the whole path in one go, do. Walking the 81-mile Essex Way is likely to take between five and seven days, and so fits nicely into a week’s break. If you can’t though, it’s practical to break the walk into shorter sections, indeed perhaps a succession of day walks, and string the walk together in that way.

Shorter sections mean however that you have to be able to cope, time after time, with the nature of a linear walk – simply, you don’t end up where you started. For most people, after all, the circular route is what they are used to. There are four main ways round this.

  • Have a friend or partner drop you at the start and collect you at the finish. Nice if you can get it! Alas, not always practical.
  • The two-car shuffle. Two of you drive to the finish, one car goes back to the start, and reverse that at the finish. That’s how I walked the Essex Way for the first time, with my long-time walking partner Dave Travers: he driving from near Harwich, and me from Forest Gate.
  • Use public transport. In Essex, this is very practical – it’s of all but no use on the Pennine Way, for example. From my home in east London, it’s how I did all the route research for Walking in Essex. Below there are a couple of examples of how you could walk the route in sections either from London or the county town of Chelmsford.
  • Walk there and walk back again. Good, in that you see the countryside differently coming back, but by definition takes twice as long.

How far is a day?

Only you can answer this. If you are an experienced walker, you will know. If you aren’t, don’t over-estimate your abilities: but most reasonably fit adults, indeed teenagers plus, can cope with 10 miles or so fairly easily in lowland Britain, if they but knew it, and 12 to 15 miles is no outlandish aspiration. My guidebook gives stage lengths from 5 miles to 15 miles, but most are in single figures, and the longer stages can themselves be split.

Personally, in lowland Britain, I will quite often walk 18-mile days on trails like this, but I know others who will walk even more. But many will be looking to fit in the route as single stages whenever they can, and the staging in the guidebook bears this in mind.

Approaching White Notley

Approaching White Notley

Two sample itineraries

Either of these could work on a return-to-base strategy from London or Chelmsford.

Seven shorter days

  1. Epping to Willingale, 12 miles
  2. Willingale to Great Waltham, 11 miles
  3. Great Waltham to White Notley, 11 miles
  4. White Notley to Fordstreet bridge, 14 miles
  5. Fordstreet bridge to Dedham, 14 miles
  6. Dedham to Wrabness, 10 miles
  7. Wrabness to Harwich, eight miles

Five longer days

  1. Epping to Salt’s Green, 16 miles
  2. Salt’s Green to White Notley, 19 miles
  3. White Notley to Coggeshall, seven miles (spend the afternoon on my Coggeshall town trail!)
  4. Coggeshall to Dedham, 21 miles
  5. Dedham to Harwich, 19 miles


The ideal for any long-distance path is to walk the trail in one go using local accommodation as you do. This helps benefit the local economy as well as enabling you to stay in some delightful properties in the pleasant villages and small towns along the way.

Walking in Essex lists some accommodation on or near the route, as of mid-2018. It’s not exhaustive and you might turn up other places either through a web search or via local Tourist Information Centres or the Visit Essex website. A good way of web searching is to enter the name of a local town and the word ‘accommodation’. This gives you not just a text listing but a map – very helpful as often establishments think only of the car driver when defining the word ‘near’.

How far away from the path do you want to stay? Ideally, no more than a mile. My personal limit would be around two miles. You really don’t want to be walking an hour at the end of the day to find your accommodation – and an hour before you get back to the trail in the morning. Sometimes though, establishments don’t mind giving a lift. And is it cheating to call a cab? (No.)

This route is not however very suitable for camping. There is no right to pitch a tent in England (unlike Scotland) and although Essex has a good number of campsites they are mostly on or near the coast, inconvenient for the route. You could however ask at local farms for permission and, although I’ve not tried it, it’s likely that many would be prepared to help.

Twilight at Dovercourt

Twilight at Dovercourt